Latest Designer Bathroom Ideas and How To Guides for your Home

Shower cubicles are a popular part of the bathroom fixtures and fittings selection process, especially for those who lead a busy lifestyle.  A long soak in the bath is always nice, but it is often hard to find the time; showers are also a much more economical option. 

A Shower cubicle will comprise a tray, enclosure walls, door and the shower itself.  They are designed to last the user many years, without the need to replace it and they are often excellent value for money.  They can be designed to match the rest of your bathroom suite and come in a range of styles.

Those who have a larger bathroom may prefer to have a corner shower enclosure, with a curved door which slides back.  For smaller spaces there are the square shower enclosures which take up a little less room.  They are also available in a D-shape, with bi-fold doors or pivot doors.

There are several advantages to a shower cubicle as opposed to using a shower over a bath.  They are solid enclosures which can keep the water contained, they are easily cleaned and maintained, and there is no need to deal with shower curtains that quickly become dirty and torn.  They also take up much less space than a bath, making them ideal for smaller areas. 

The latest shower enclosures are designed as a combined shower/steam cabinet.  They come in a range of sizes and with all the gadgetry required to offer a complete shower experience.

Whether an individual chooses to install an underfloor heating insulation system or one of the more modern underfloor heating systems based upon heated water or electric heating mats, there are a number of options now available.

Underfloor heating insulation significantly improves the overall performance of house heating as a whole, and it also helps each and every room heat up more efficiently and stay warmer for longer periods of time; it also saves money when it comes to the electricity bill. In a day and age where energy conservation is considered mandatory for the long term future of our planet, it makes sense to do everything in your power to make your home as ‘green’ as possible.

There are a number of different types of underfloor heating kits available on the market today, also floor insulation boards suitable for not only tiled floors but also wood and laminate. Concrete and tile are notoriously cold during the winter months, and by installing underfloor heating insulation underneath tiled floors it allows you to experience a warm floor after hopping out of the shower or bath.  As far as wood and laminate surfaces go, underfloor heating insulation on those surfaces not only creates a thermal barrier but also works as a noise reduction system that helps eliminate impact noises such as footfalls. If you live in a flat this can be extremely helpful in keeping your neighbours happy with the noise level emanating from above.

The most common way of installing a bathroom basin is to place it on a pedestal and fix the whole thing to the wall. However these basins are not all the same size or shape, and they may have one, two, or three holes in them for the taps. The spacing of these holes can also vary.

A bathroom basin with one hole in it will take what is called a monobloc tap, which is a mixer tap operated by a single knob or lever. Two tap holes, one on either side at the back of the basin are for standard pillar taps, hot at one side and cold at the other. Three holes in the basin are provided for the fitting of two taps and one spout. It is important to make sure that basin and taps match where the number of holes is concerned.  If you are unsure, then seek professional advice before buying.

If space is at a premium in a very small bathroom, it may be a good idea to use a basin that can be hung on the wall instead of using a pedestal. Sinking a basin into a vanity unit is also a good way of neatening things up and saving space.

The other thing to decide on when choosing the right bathroom basin is how the water will run away. There is the traditional plug hole and rubber plug method, or you may want to go for a more modern looking pop up system.

There is a lot to consider when choosing a bath. At one time you had a choice of white or a small range of pastel colours, there was little variation in style. Today’s bathroom shops have a huge range of different styles and colours and there is a lot more choice.

Not all baths are the same size so the space available should be measured carefully. The capacity of a bath is also important because most people fill their bath to just over half full. If you opt for a large, deep bath, you might need as much as 40 gallons of water per bath. Your hot water system needs to be able to cope with this or you will not be able to run a full bath from one tank of hot water.

Choosing the material a new bath is made of depends on how much you wish to spend and how hard wearing you expect it to be.  Fibreglass is the best choice if cost is important but this material will not last as long as porcelain or acrylic.  Designer baths made of wood and stone are also available, but they are very expensive and may need lots of careful maintenance. A cast iron bath will last a very long time, but as with stone you will need a floor that is strong enough to hold the weight.

Then there is the option of having water jets or a whirlpool unit built in; these make a very luxurious bath, but the water consumption may be higher. This is a consideration if you have a water meter, or a small hot water tank. These also consume electricity, which may be a consideration to you.

There are a variety of underfloor heating systems available on the market today for use with different flooring surfaces. It is important to understand that the variety is there because those different types of materials require different types of heating systems.  The systems also require different preparatory steps to be taken prior to the actual DIY installation.

There are now generally two main types of underfloor heating systems sold. One is designed for use over concrete, and another that is sold for use over wood. The reason for this is because concrete and wood have two distinctly different heat energy absorption rates, with concrete absorbing heat at a higher rate than wood.

In the case of underfloor heating systems being installed over concrete, it is important that the concrete floor be completely level and properly cured. If it is a brand-new sub-floor than it should be allowed plenty of time to cure naturally; a minimum of one week is recommended. If the finished floor is not level than a thin layer of levelling compound can be used to obtain the desired completely flat surface.

Wooden floors should be thoroughly cleaned prior to any installation of an underfloor heating kit. They should also be level, and if the floor heating system is going to be an under tile heating system then a suitable layer of material should be installed in advance according to the recommendations of the Tiling Federation. Primers and sealers are recommended by adhesive manufacturers for both sub-floor types prior to any DIY underfloor heating installation.

Choosing the colour of a bathroom suite is a matter of personal preference, but something that looks different and modern at first may quickly go out of fashion. It applies mostly to exotic colours and unusual shapes which look fabulous in a showroom but can soon become boring in a home bathroom. Make sure that whatever shapes and colours you select will look just as good to you in two year’s time as they do when they are newly installed and that you will not get tired of the design.

The colours of bathroom suites tend to change quite often and after a very short time certain colours will no longer be available, so if you need replacement items in unusual colours or shapes you will probably not be able to get them. Choosing white and adding colour to the bathroom in other ways avoids the likelihood of this problem arising.

When selecting bathroom colours, you should consider the amount of light in the room. Dark colours in a small room with little natural light will make the finished effect dark and claustrophobic. If you have chosen a white bathroom suite, it is easy to personalise a bathroom by adding accents of colour with tiles, paintwork, wallpaper, or even fabrics.

Small items of wood, sea grass or cane furniture can be added to the room to make it appear less clinical if you have gone for the all white effect, and the addition of a couple of luscious leafy plants can do a great deal to improve and enliven the décor.

Bathroom tiles are easy to keep clean and sanitized, and a bathroom is after all a place that should be hygienic. Gloss tiles have a sparkling, fresh appearance and a simple wipe down keeps them looking their best. Tiling a bathroom all around will give a waterproof, hygienic environment, especially if the tile grouting is done with antibacterial grout. This is certainly not the case if walls are papered, or painted.

Tiling the floor as well will give you a wet room which can stand up to showers, baths, spillages and keep them contained. Many modern houses are now being built with wet rooms containing shower, seat and bath.

When choosing colours it is wise to remember that having tiles all the same colour will give an illusion of far more space in a small bathroom. Light coloured tiles will make a small bathroom look much bigger by reflecting the light around the room, but dark ones tend to make the space look smaller.

Other factors to consider are that tiled bathroom floors can be quite cold beneath the feet, even when they are laid on a wooden floor. Installing under-floor heating in the bathroom will resolve this problem, and using warm colours like terracotta for the floor tiling will also give the feeling of a warm floor. Adding bath mats is a simple resolution to this but it defeats the object of having a waterproof bathroom and is not always a practical idea. The safety aspect of mats on wet tiled floors needs to be addressed too.

When buying designer basin taps it is quite common for there to be a lot of different technical specifications on the packaging. It certainly helps to know what these terms mean if you are to make an informed choice.

A tap that contains a ceramic disc cartridge is fitted with a device which improves the actual performance of the tap and makes it last longer. This is like a valve which works with two ceramic discs that open and close to increase or decrease water flow, or mix hot and cold water.

If the tap is marked as ‘quarter turn’ it means that it can be switched on or off by as little as a quarter of a turn and a tap which is thermostatically controlled can be set to keep the water at a safe temperature. This will save money by only heating water to the required temperature and it is a safety feature for children and the elderly.

Take special note of the recommendations with regards to water pressure because different basin taps require different minimum water pressure to operate properly. A high pressure tap needs a pressure of 0.5 bar or more if it is to work properly and a low pressure tap will only work at 0.2 bar or above.

If you unsure about your water pressure, or need further advice about suitable basin taps for your bathroom water system, ask for professional advice before buying. A good quality designer basin tap can be an expensive item which you will live with for a very long time, so it is important to get the very best for your particular system.

Some bathroom accessories are easy to fit and anyone with just a few DIY skills will be able to install them; others take the skills of a professional. Fitting a bathroom towel rack is relatively easy with the correct tools.

First of all, measure, centre and mark the position of the towel rack on the wall, checking that it is level with a spirit level. The standard height for a towel rack in a bathroom is four feet, but practically speaking, it is best to fit it at the best height for your particular bathroom.

Then screw one of the mounting plates to the wall where you have marked the position, but do not drive the screw right in. If you find that there is a stud there continue, but if not it may be necessary to take a metal toggle anchor and screw it in so that it is flush with the wall. Then attach the mounting bracket into the toggle anchor.

Place the towel bar onto the fixed mounting bracket and check the measurement before fixing the other mounting bracket in the same way, but do not tighten the screws. Then place the towel bar over the mounting plates and use the spirit level again just to double check. The mounting plates can be adjusted until they are right and then the screws need to be tightened.

Then attach the bar and tighten the small screws on the ends of the towel rack with an Allen key which should be provided with the towel rack fixing kit. Make sure that everything is screwed in tightly and the job is complete.

Ceramic, porcelain and stone tiled floors can be warmed from below with either electric or water underfloor heating. Usually, the pipes or cables are sandwiched in a layer of flexible screed or adhesive between the sub floor below and the tiles on top. An underfloor heating thermostat, linked to a floor sensor, keeps the temperature of the tiles at the desired level. Modern under tile heating is extremely reliable, low maintenance, and complies with strict safety regulations.

Under tile heating can be achieved with either an electric or a water based system. When choosing an underfloor heating kit, you should consider the size of the floor area, the position of permanent fixings, and how it will work with the primary heating in the house. Electric underfloor heating systems generally heat up faster and are slimmer so that your floor level is barely raised. Wet under tile heating systems are often more economical to run, particularly in larger spaces.

It is important to get a system that is specifically designed to go under tiles. The level of heat generated varies as the heat absorbing qualities of timber, concrete and other materials are all different. The easiest under tile heating kits come in the form of linked mats with the cable already in position. These can be arranged on the floor, taking care not to cut or damage the cable, covered with tile adhesive and then tiled. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions and check whether expansion joints are necessary when tiling.