Latest Designer Bathroom Ideas and How To Guides for your Home

If you are decorating and the appearance of your wall or ceiling is marred by holes and cracks, you will need to fix these imperfections. Small indents or gouges identified in the surface of plaster can be filled easily. Larger cracks or defects will require a greater preparation.

Break away any loose material using a chisel to create a sound surface. Run the chisel along the crack, scraping the plaster and widening the crack.  The object is to make the crack into a V shape. Brush away any dust from the crack or hole.

Place the required amount of ready-mixed filler on a board. Use a hawk to scoop up some filler and push it into the crack using a sweeping motion to obtain a smooth finish.

Allow the filler adequate time to dry. You will find that the filler shrinks slightly below the level of the surface. Repeat the process to build the surface up so that it is level with the surrounding plaster.

Sand the surface using a sanding block or if a large area an electric sander. Wear a dust mask while performing this task.

Mosaic tiles come in large sheets with a mesh backing holding the small tile pieces together in ready-made patterns.  Mosaic tiles are used widely on walls and splashbacks, and are quite easy to fit around obstacles such as switches and electrical outlets.

To lay mosaic tiles, you will first need to apply adhesive to the wall.  Never apply more adhesive than is necessary for two to four sheets of tile at any time.  It is important to use a good quality adhesive and a notched adhesive spreader to achieve the best results.  After the adhesive is applied to the wall, hold the spreader at a 45 degree angle and drag it through the adhesive to get even ridges.  Make sure the design of the first sheet of mosaic tiles is the right way up and press it into the adhesive with your hands, and then use a short, flat piece of wood to tamp the tile flat, paying particular attention to the edges. 

If there is an obstacle such as a socket that needs to be tiled around, prior to applying the adhesive measure from the edge of the last full sheet of tile to the edge of the obstacle.  Then measure the length and width of the obstacle itself.  Use those measurements on the tile sheet and cut away tiles inside the measurements with a trimming knife.  Place the sheet against the wall to see if it fits and then coat around the obstacle with adhesive and apply the tile.  If there are gaps around the obstruction, cut a few tiles from a spare sheet to fill them in.

After 24 hours you can apply grout.  Kitchens and bathrooms will need waterproof grout.  Use a rubber-edged grout spreader, and clean away excess grout from the sheets as you work.  When the grout is set, neaten the lines with a grout shaper or a thin piece of dowel.

If you are having difficulty opening and closing your kitchen cabinet drawers, the first thing you will want to do is inspect the runners.  In a large number of cases, you will need look no further to find the problem.

Runners are designed to make drawers open and close smoothly, and in most cases will do so unless they are in poor condition.  For example, even a little rust or a slight dent could cause a drawer not to operate properly.  If the runners are very old and sticking then it may be time to replace them.

The most common drawer system has a drawer with two metal sides that fit into two runners which are located on the inside walls of the cabinet.  The back and base is chipboard and the drawer has an eighty percent extension when pulled out.

Most hardware shops and DIY centres carry runner kits with self-closing devices that are suitable for use on this type of drawer system.  These kits are available in different colours to blend in with your kitchen cabinet’s colour.

Removing an old or damaged runner is easily done by simply unscrewing it.  A new runner is just as easily installed by screwing it in.  Even if only one runner appears to be damaged, it is recommended that both runners be changed at the same time.  

Whether or not you require planning permission before erecting a garden room will depend on a range of factors.  The main ones will be whether you already have an extension to your property, whether your property is adjacent to a public right of way such as a road or a footpath, whether the total area of your garden will be reduced by over 50 per cent, and several other considerations.  Should planning permission be required, the builders usually take the necessary fees and drawings into account when they present you with their estimate.

You should make sure of your legal position before approaching a garden room provider.  Do this, by getting in touch with your local planning office and looking over your deeds to check whether you have the necessary development rights.

Garden rooms have been classed as a permitted development since 2008, when new regulations came into force.  Since then, planning permission for garden studios has not been needed, subject to several conditions.

If the proposed building covers less than 15sq metres, it will not need planning permission.  Neither will it need permission if it is between 15 and 30sq metres and at least one metre from a boundary, or built from mainly non-combustible materials.  However, even if these conditions are met, planning permission will still be required if the building is to contain sleeping accommodation.

If the garden room is over 2.5 metres in height or takes up over half of the original house’s surrounding land area, planning permission will be needed.  Permission will also be needed if it is to be built at the side of the house, or on a World Heritage Site or other such designated area, or if the construction is associated with a listed building.

When a window covering is required and practicality and budget are both considerations, then roller blinds are a sound choice compared to other types of blinds. Roller blinds require less material than both venetian and roman blinds, and with some designs of roller blinds the fabric can be taken off and changed if it gets worn and replaced with another fabric without needing to purchase another winding mechanism. Roller blinds are easier to clean and attract less dust than venetian blinds or roman blinds, which makes roller blinds a good choice for people with allergies.

The rolling mechanism in roller blinds is much less complicated than that of venetian blinds, meaning that they are easier to raise and lower without the risk of the cords becoming tangled. Roller blinds roll right up to the top of the window, making them a suitable option when maximum light is needed in a room.

Unlike venetian blinds and roman blinds, some roller blinds are designed to be raised and lowered by remote control, and some have a timing device which can be set so that the blinds open and close at specific times.

Dropped something onto your tiled floor and caused one to crack? Do not worry, this can be fixed.

Assuming you have a replacement tile available, the task of removing and fitting a new one is simple.

First, pierce approximately four holes across the tile from corner to corner using a masonry drill. Wear protective goggles and gloves, tap along the line of holes with a lump hammer to crack the tile.

A dull wood chisel can be used to crack up and scrape away old tile. Ensure all grout is removed from around the edges. Work from both directions to remove tile.

Remove any glue left using the chisel; any ridges in the surface will be adhesive residue. Clean the area sweeping away old tile, dust and dirt, leaving a smooth surface for the new tile.

Apply tile adhesive using a ridged scraper. Slip the tile in place, ensuring it does not sit proud of other tiles. Using the smooth side of your scraper, add adhesive around the new tile where it meets existing tiles. Wipe any excess away with a cloth.

If you want to keep your outdoor decking looking good, you should give it a spruce up twice a year. This ensures it will continue to be an attractive focal point in your garden for years to come.

In preparation for the summer months, it is wise to clean up the decking in spring. Then once again in autumn, clean it up before winter sets in.

In DIY outlets you will find specialist decking cleaning products available that are uniquely formulated for this purpose.

These specialist decking detergents rid the surface of grease, algae, moss and general dirt that has accumulated over the months. Not only will your decking look much nicer afterwards, the surface will be less hazardous and slippery.

Follow the instructions on the packet for the decking cleaner and apply accordingly. The surface should be scrubbed immediately after application using a stiff brush. Leave to stand for the allotted time (consult product instructions for this), then rinse thoroughly with a hose until all residue has gone. Wait two days before applying a protective coat to the surface.

When deciding on a window covering there are various options. Whether to opt for curtains or blinds is a matter of personal choice and will depend on the style of the room and the practical requirements of the window covering. Expense is a major factor, and ease of installation is important too. In many cases it is easier and cheaper to install blinds oneself, rather than curtains.

Making wooden slatted blinds from scratch is complicated, but they can be bought ready-made to fit a standard size window and there are blind makers that will fabricate made-to-measure venetian blinds. The advantage of buying venetian blinds ready-made is that even if the window is not a standard size, the blinds can very easily be cut to size during installation.

Once the window has been measured and appropriate width blinds purchased, the brackets that will hold the blind have to be attached above the window. They can be either screwed into the wooden window frame or into the stonework. The blind is then slipped into the bracket and measured for size. The appropriate width can be lightly marked with a pencil, and then the excess sawed with a hacksaw.

When the blind is the correct width it can be fitted back into the brackets, and sometimes a third bracket is put up at this point to support the blind from sagging in the middle. Then the brackets are closed, taped over with Velcro to which a trim is stuck, purely for cosmetic purposes to hide the bracket and the workings of the blind. Next the string is adjusted and a slipknot tied to bring the blind up to the appropriate length, or ‘drop’.

If the blind is too long the slats will gather in a bunch at the bottom of it. If this happens, the bottom slats need to be removed until there is no bunching of slats when the blind is fully down.

Fitting laminate floorboards is quite simple. However, as laminate flooring expands and contracts, you will need to leave a ten-millimetre space between the edge of the boards and the skirting boards. Use fitting wedges to help you to do this.

Lay your boards lengthways working towards the source of the light in your room. Start to lay your flooring boards from the left hand side.

Lay your first board so that the short tongue is against the wall. Fit the fitting wedges in between the wall and the board, ensuring that it is exactly parallel to the wall.

Lay your next board end-on to the first one. Ensure that the tongues lock together. To lock the boards together, slide your second board in at a 30-degree angle so that it is able to slot-in when it is lowered. Continue in the same way until you have completed a row.

To strengthen your laminate floor, you will need to offset the boards. Begin to lay your second row with the aid of half a board. Angle the long side of the board at 30 degrees. Press forward and down to lock the flooring in place.

Lay the short end of the successive flooring board at an angle against the board you placed down earlier and fold down, ensuring that the floorboard is against the locking strip of the previous row.

Angle the flooring boards at 30 degrees and push them against the front row. When the boards seem to be tight together, push them down.

When fitting the last row, place one board at a time over the top of the previous row. Place a third board atop, so that its tongue touches the skirting, and use the edge of the board to distinguish the cutting line on the flooring board beneath. Cut the board to size and ease it into its position.

Finally, remove the fitting wedges.

Thermal blinds, also known as energy saving blinds, are specially manufactured using thermal materials that retain heat in cold environments and prevent excess heat from entering warm rooms via the window.  In addition, the properties of such thermal material mean that in essence, thermal blinds may also act as a form of blackout blind as they help to eliminate light.

This form of blind is manufactured using a series of layers of material that work in conjunction to control room temperature.  Thermal blinds typically contain a layer of insulating material (e.g. foil) in the middle of the material.  This layer will automatically work to achieve the purpose the blind was set to create; it will deflect light / heat out of the room maintaining a comfortable temperature and in the opposite situation, this layer will retain the heat inside the room, not allowing it to escape so that warmth is maintained.  Due to these properties, thermal blinds are commonly located in conservatories; the large areas of glass mean that this area can become extremely cold during winter and overly bright and warm during summer months.

Thermal blinds are popular in the UK as they are able to keep heating costs down by preventing warmth leaving a room.  For this reason, they are considered eco-friendly.  They are practical and can be removed / rolled up to allow light in when it is required.  They are also available in a number of colours and designs to add to or enhance interior design.