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Water or wet underfloor heating is a system of heating using heated water circulating in pipes under the floor. Underfloor heating is a radiant type of heating, which warms rooms gradually using the entire floor as a radiator. It tends to be more cost efficient and longer lasting due to the heat retention properties of the floor, especially if is concrete, stone or tiled.

Installation of water underfloor heating systems, whether done professionally or on a DIY basis using underfloor heating kits, can either use what are known as the open or the closed underfloor heating systems.

The open system uses the central water supply to provide the source water circulating through the underfloor heating water pipes. What this means is that the hot water later used in a bath or sink has passed under the floor first. The open system improves the efficiency of water usage.

The closed system uses one dedicated source of water for the water underfloor heating system. Hot water is circulated and re-circulated through the underfloor system of water pipes in a closed loop. The benefit of this system is that anti-freeze can be added to the water, mitigating the risk of damaged water pipes. Closed systems are common in rural areas that may experience lengthy periods of power cuts in winter. The drawback of the closed system is the double usage of water: one for the domestic usage and one for the underfloor heating system. This limits water use efficiency.

When choosing to install under tile heating in a new home, extension, or remodelling project, one of the most important choices is actually the underfloor heating thermostat you attach to the entire system.  Many people choose underfloor heating because it’s quiet and energy efficient, as well as beautiful, since there are no radiators or wall heaters to mar the beauty of your home.

However, that energy efficiency can be eroded quickly by an inefficient thermostat.  For peak efficiency, choose a programmable thermostat that has several settings per day.  For example, with 4 settings per day you could set Monday through Friday to turn on before you wake, and turn off as you leave for work.  Then the thermostat would turn the floor on shortly before you return home from work, and turn it off again after you’ve retired for the night. 

Many underfloor heating thermostats offer separate options for the weekends, so if you’ll be out all day you could turn it off, or leave the heat on a low setting if you’ll be in the house most of the weekend. 

If your schedule seems as if it always changes, there are even thermostats that can be controlled from any touch tone phone, including your mobile.  Won’t be home until several hours later than usual?  Call ahead and re-program your underfloor system to turn on later. You’ll save money on your heating bill, but still have the comfort of a warm home to return to.

Today’s underfloor heating thermostats come in a dizzying array of choices, so talk to the professional selling you the underfloor system.  Tell that person your typical schedule, and how many square metres you’ll be heating, and he or she will give you an idea of the options that best suit your requirements.

Whether an individual chooses to install an underfloor heating insulation system or one of the more modern underfloor heating systems based upon heated water or electric heating mats, there are a number of options now available.

Underfloor heating insulation significantly improves the overall performance of house heating as a whole, and it also helps each and every room heat up more efficiently and stay warmer for longer periods of time; it also saves money when it comes to the electricity bill. In a day and age where energy conservation is considered mandatory for the long term future of our planet, it makes sense to do everything in your power to make your home as ‘green’ as possible.

There are a number of different types of underfloor heating kits available on the market today, also floor insulation boards suitable for not only tiled floors but also wood and laminate. Concrete and tile are notoriously cold during the winter months, and by installing underfloor heating insulation underneath tiled floors it allows you to experience a warm floor after hopping out of the shower or bath.  As far as wood and laminate surfaces go, underfloor heating insulation on those surfaces not only creates a thermal barrier but also works as a noise reduction system that helps eliminate impact noises such as footfalls. If you live in a flat this can be extremely helpful in keeping your neighbours happy with the noise level emanating from above.

There are a variety of underfloor heating systems available on the market today for use with different flooring surfaces. It is important to understand that the variety is there because those different types of materials require different types of heating systems.  The systems also require different preparatory steps to be taken prior to the actual DIY installation.

There are now generally two main types of underfloor heating systems sold. One is designed for use over concrete, and another that is sold for use over wood. The reason for this is because concrete and wood have two distinctly different heat energy absorption rates, with concrete absorbing heat at a higher rate than wood.

In the case of underfloor heating systems being installed over concrete, it is important that the concrete floor be completely level and properly cured. If it is a brand-new sub-floor than it should be allowed plenty of time to cure naturally; a minimum of one week is recommended. If the finished floor is not level than a thin layer of levelling compound can be used to obtain the desired completely flat surface.

Wooden floors should be thoroughly cleaned prior to any installation of an underfloor heating kit. They should also be level, and if the floor heating system is going to be an under tile heating system then a suitable layer of material should be installed in advance according to the recommendations of the Tiling Federation. Primers and sealers are recommended by adhesive manufacturers for both sub-floor types prior to any DIY underfloor heating installation.

Underfloor heating costs are comparable to conventional heating costs, however there are many variables to consider. The amount that you pay will depend very much on whether you are adding a new underfloor heating system to the heating already in place, or starting from scratch. Generally, it takes less time to install floor heating than radiators, but the cost of the components is higher.

If you are adding to an existing system, water underfloor heating, which circulates hot water, is generally more economical for larger areas and electric underfloor heating for smaller rooms. However, don’t forget the running costs, as well as additional components such as underfloor heating insulation, screeds, water pumps and manifolds. A small tiled floor, say in a bathroom, can be electrically heated for around £500 – 600 if you buy a DIY underfloor heating kit, although you need to add the cost of floor insulation, an electrician’s fee, and any new tiling. On a larger scale, if underfloor heating is incorporated in a newly built house or a renovation where the central heating and the floors are being replaced, it can be the most cost effective choice.

New central heating systems can be designed as efficiently as possible, so that water or electric underfloor heating installation costs are similar to, or cheaper than traditional heating systems. A bespoke system, with good insulation, can also keep running costs down as it distributes heat more efficiently and each room’s temperature can be controlled with underfloor heating thermostats.

There are two methods of underfloor heating: either warm water is circulated through pipes, or electrical current is passed through cables. Many people choose water underfloor heating because it can easily be run from an existing boiler which makes it both economical and simple. Often it is run in addition to conventional heating. Modern condensing boilers are perfect for the job as floor heating requires water at a lower temperature than conventional systems. This is usually around 50 degrees rather than 60 or more for traditional radiators.

The running costs of an underfloor heating kit are usually lower than conventional heating, and it is less work to install. Electric underfloor heating is usually more economical for small areas such as a bathroom or a conservatory, and wet systems for larger areas. There are individual thermostats for each room or zone, giving great flexibility and allowing the independent heating control required by Building Regulations in conservatories. Despite the components costing a little more, they tend to be very durable and low maintenance. In a wet system, water flows through one long pipe with no joints which could leak, and all the valves and electrical components are usually hidden in a cupboard. These are all strong reasons for choosing water or electric underfloor heating.

As well as being efficient, underfloor heating can be ecologically friendly too. Water underfloor heating can be run with solar panels, or even geothermal heat pumps that use underground heat.

When you use any form of pipework, like that used in water underfloor heating systems, there is a possibility that you could end up with it sustaining damage. However this is a very small risk if you follow all the installation instructions, especially regarding the distance of the pipes from the edges of the room. By ensuring the pipes are not near the edge you can reduce the risk of damage occurring when you lay the floor over the top, especially if you have chosen a wooden floor and need to nail it into place at the sides.

If there is damage that is significant enough to cause a leak, then you will know immediately, because the pressure will drop and sadly, concrete is porous, so water can escape into it. The best thing to do in this case is call an expert in, because they will stand a better chance of being able to isolate the leak and carry out repairs to that piece of pipe, while causing minimal disruption to the rest of the flooring.

Obviously, choosing an electric underfloor heating system minimises further the maintenance of the system and the number of things that can go wrong is much reduced. That said, a wet system that has been installed correctly should not cause any problems. You may still want to read case studies of underfloor heating to reassure yourself, but then properly researching any product you are thinking of buying is always advisable.

Underfloor heating is renowned for being low maintenance, which is excellent news. However, should anything go wrong with the parts that are installed in the floor, repairing and replacing them could be something of a nightmare job, so you do need to make sure the installation is of the highest quality possible. 

Obviously, if you are installing a water underfloor heating system as a DIY project, there really isn’t much of a guarantee on offer. The products, themselves, will be guaranteed, but if they are installed badly then the problem lies elsewhere and you will not be able to claim against that guarantee. However, if you have a professional system installed, you should ensure that you are provided with a valid guarantee that is valid for a reasonable period of time. It is definitely worth paying a little more to find a company that offers a long guarantee. If a company is prepared to offer five years, when others only offer two, it must be confident that there are not going to be any issues within this period. You can then rest assured that this is a robust product that you can be confident has been installed properly.

If you do a half DIY scheme and employ a plumber and/or electrician to do their part, you need to make sure you get them to provide a guarantee. Although limited to the work they have done, it could save you a headache in the future.

Controlling an underfloor heating system is simple and there are several ways to go about it. Once installed, the beauty of an underfloor heating system is that it controls itself and regulates the temperature by detecting differences between the floor surfaces and room temperature. As a result, the rooms remain at a constant temperature.

Most underfloor heating systems are regulated by a control point manifold, which is set in the floor and a pump for mixing the values. Working together, they help to create a constant temperature. For example, in a room that is empty, the heating controls will allow the room to warm to the temperature on the thermostat. When the room is occupied, people’s body heat and movements create a further element of warmth, so the level of heating provided is reduced to compensate and the overall temperature remains constant.

In most cases, the entire system is controlled from one central point, however it is possible to have individual controls for each room. Bathrooms wouldn’t really be suitable for this, but you may find it of benefit in the main living room. If this is the case, a wall unit, similar to a central heating system control enables you to increase or reduce the temperature as required. The best option is to discuss your requirements with a specialist who has experience of underfloor heating before you start, so you can be sure you get the most suitable solution for you home.

The two main floor constructions that can support underfloor heating most effectively are concrete and wood. That’s not to say other floor types cannot support an underfloor heating system, it’s just that these are the most popular two and are the ones most commonly used in the building industry. Both types can be installed by either knowledgeable DIY builders or professionals.

In the case of concrete floors there are preparations that need to be made, in terms of insulation, but because of the concrete the heat is able to diffuse really well and this is an incredibly efficient way of heating your home. There is no fear about sealing the pipes into the concrete, as the underfloor heating system is also extremely low maintenance. It is also unlikely that you will experience any problems with the components that are buried in the concrete, as long as a professional installs the system and comes with an industry standard guarantee.

Wooden floor systems are very easy to install, which is excellent, especially if you want to have a go at DIY underfloor heating. However, wooden floors do not allow the heat to permeate into the room as effectively as concrete, so the heat output is lower, meaning you may need the heating on for longer or on higher, which costs more. Although wooden floors are undoubtedly nicer to look at, it may be worth considering a concrete screed from a money saving point of view.